Birthday, Babes and, Brunching.

February 14, 2018 marked my eight month in the Land Down Under and 25 years on Planet Earth. Before I started this adventure, I promised myself I’d be in Asia for my birthday. Just like everything else on this trip, my plan did not work out and I couldn’t be happier for that. Because I’ve met people in Melbourne who went out there way to plan an entire brunch celebration without me lifting a finger. For those who’ve known me pre-Australia know that, there’s few things I love more than brunch. We bought the finest 5 dollar champagne Woolie’s had to offer and made our own bottomless mimosa brunch. It’s safe to say my Melbourne friends “get me”. They are also the same friends who admit they only read my blog to see if I’ve named dropped them. So *cue the bubbles* and allow me to make some introductions.

The ladies who brunch are all English and they’re all lovely (obviously). Emma, my roommate-life manager-fellow Netflix binger, who knows I hate surprises, took it upon herself to make this birthday brunch happen for me. All the mimosa induced shenanigans took place at Fran and Jenny’s house. Two mates who I hit it off with immediately after moving to St. Kilda. The house is huge and has a doppelgänger of Maxx, named Leena. Jenny and Fran are convinced Leena’s the only reason I come over, but it’s only a bonus. Tracey and I got the party started. My northern English girls were there; Jody and Chevaugne. And my Darwin babe Becks even came through. It was the best day. The type of birthday when your friends hook up a piano outside to sing you a song.We left our brunch spot back to Nomads St Kilda, where I was living. The entire roof also sang the birthday tune. My friends Hannah made me cupcakes. I was unemployed at the time.  It was happy days. 

I took way too long to post about this day but it was one of the best all year. Melbourne is some of my favorite memories from Australia and thinking about it now, I’m smiling to myself. We ate eggs Benedict and drunk mimosas all day. It was perfect.

Surviving Katherine.

Sometimes when I think about it, I’m amazed that I’m not still sitting in a grocery store carpark in Katherine, Northern Territory. Katherine is an outback town, 3 hours south of Darwin, filled with tradesman, a Woothworth’s, a large Aboriginal population, and not much else. In a serious way, Katherine is the last real town you’ll hit if embarking on an Outback road trip, like we were. Melissa, Michael and I agreed, all of the T’s had to be crossed and I’s dotted before we left Katherine. If everything went to plan, we’d be cruising out of Katherine fully stocked, gassed and prepped for the Outback road trip we’d all been waiting for. But of course, things never happen the way you think they will.

It was a Friday, late afternoon when we rolled into the Woolie’s carpark, the whole town was ready to shut down for the weekend. Despite the crowds, we found a parking spot right smack dab in the middle of the lot. We went in to the store eager, and with a game plan. We bought everything: water, canned goods, eggs, rice, pasta, toiletries, wine, beer, spirits, and plenty of ice. Our shopping cart was so full, we struggled to fit everything into the Tetris game that was our Holden Commodore station wagon, Connie.

There’s no better way to describe the heat in the North Territory other than, oppressive. After stuffing Connie to the brim with our loot, the three of us hopped in and rolled the windows down, immediately. This quick reaction to a boiling hot car, is really what made our night. Mike, as usual, was in the driver’s seat. He turned the key and while the electricity turned on, Connie’s engine did not. She’d stuttered before, so he tried again. Nothing. And again. The three of us sat for a minute in our car that wouldn’t start, windows down, filled with everything we owned.

Mike was the amateur mechanic, he figured it had to be the battery, but the battery was new. We popped the hood and the battery light was green. We tried to turn the key again, and this time, it just wouldn’t rotate at all. We were stuck and absolutely clueless about what to do.

Two tradies about our age rocked up to see if they could help. The boys discussed possible solutions, tried taking the battery out and putting it back. After becoming sufficiently stumped, they offered us a beer and their words of advice: You don’t want to leave your car here overnight, there won’t be anything left when you get back.

Somewhere in that time a heavily tattoo’d man returned to his car directly in front of ours and called out a possible solution before driving off. Next, an awkward but talkative gas station attendant came to try his hand at getting Connie going. He’d apparently owned several Commodore’s and offered some potential solutions as well as jumper cables. After being unsuccessful, he drove off as well, mentioning as he left what we already knew at this point, we couldn’t have picked a worse time or place to breakdown.

While Australia is modern in many ways, it cannot claim the treatment of it’s indigenous people as such. The Aboriginal quagmire, I’ll call it, is self-inflicted, obvious and a prevalent issue in Australia, particularly in the Northern Territory. The parking lot we’d broken down in was crowded with homeless Aboriginal people, socializing, fighting, trying to find someone to buy them alcohol (which is restricted for them to buy). A broken down car, windows down, filled with food, booze, bedding, and camping gear just wouldn’t survive the night untouched.

At this point, it was getting dark. Melissa and I decided to try the police man stationed at the liquor store. As it turns out, he used to be a mechanic. Even still, everyone was stumped and again, the only advice we were given was not the leave the car unattended. Approaching probably 8pm, the mission turned to towing the car from the parking lot. I should mention that the barren drive approaching Katherine is littered with “Katherine Towing” advertisements. In their words, they will tow “Anything, Anywhere, Anytime.” Well, Melissa, Michael and I know this to be a flat out lie.

Melissa and I first took a walk to find a hotel where we could tow the car to. The woman on reception was kind and worried about us. She said we could park it out back in the employee lot. Great, we thought.. that’s something. So, we called that Katherine Towing. We were told that they would not tow us, they cannot fit into even an empty parking lot and that we were on our own. The man on the line didn’t exactly tell us to go fuck ourselves, but he might as well have.

At this point it’s getting late, and nothing about the situation had changed. Each of us feeling helpless, angry and absolutely incredulous.  Personally, I was distraught. If we weren’t going to get towed we needed to at least make it look like the windows weren’t blatantly open. Which is when I decided to go back into Woolie’s just before closing to buy trash bags to tape the windows up with. In my state of mind, I figured that we needed all of the trash bags to extra protect our windows. This is when I purchased twenty five dollars worth of trash bags, more than any human being should need at once. I realized how over-the-top I’d been about the plan when Melissa returned with just one roll of duct tape to secure my 6 or so rolls of industrial-strength trash bags. Needless to say, for the rest of the trip we never needed more bin bags.

While she was buying that one roll of Duct Tape, Melissa managed to speak to someone who knew someone who had a grandfather who may know someone who could help.  Great, we’d love that phone number. We called and waited, someone was supposed to come by. No one really had battery left on our phone so we used the pay phones near buy. It was almost midnight at this point, anyone who wanted to break into our car had been watching us struggle with the situation all day. We gave up the trash bag window idea and thought about calling a cab, and unloading everything from Connie into it so we could sleep for the night. We hadn’t eaten or drunk anything all day, we were physically and emotionally drained. The receptionist from the hotel we’d talked to drove by in a little four door car, she was still concerned. She offered to pull us along with her car, while it was the most helpful thing anyone had offered so far, we knew Connie was just too heavy to manage that.

It was midnight when the very same heavily tattoo’d man we’d seen at the very beginning of the ordeal drove into the now-empty carpark. I’m not going to lie at first, at first we were a little sketched out. It wasn’t long before we realized that the same man who’d we’d parked in front of to start off the day in Katherine was that friend of someone’s grandfather and our knight in extensive face tatts. He also happened to be a mechanic. Instead of towing us, he promptly ripped the ignition barrel out of it’s place ( essentially, the way you rob a car.) and VROOM.It was the most beautiful sound I’ve ever heard. Just like that Connie started up again. Our nameless hero figured the real issue was the fuel pump, which would probably set us back a few hundred.

Unbelievably, we drove ourselves out of the Woolworth’s parking lot that night. Out of all the outcomes, we didn’t think this would be it.  It took ten hours in a Woolworth’s car park, countless conversations with strangers, a new ignition gage, new fuel pump, and twenty five dollars worth of trash bags, but we somehow got Connie back up and running. When we got in to drive off, we put the windows up and for the rest of our two month road trip, never rolled them down before starting the car again.

Our favorite receptionist continued to be a complete gem when we finally made it to the hotel, giving us a private room for the same price as we were paying for a shared hostel dorm. As we laid there in that private room, exhausted, finally able to breathe, we went over the details of the day we’d managed to get through. The last thing we had expected.

Road Trip Recap

It’s been almost three months since my last entry and I have travelled over 7,000 km since then via one 2004 Holden Commodore station wagon. We named her Connie. Despite the various ups and downs willingly living out a car brings, Melissa, Micheal and I made it to Melbourne, just like we had planned. It wasn’t always easy.  The Northern Territory was oppressively hot, and the east coast brought us almost entirely rain. Living out of a car was a learning curve.  But now, I’ve blinked and it’s back to needing a job, paying for over-priced hostels and showering daily.

We started off on a Friday, mid afternoon from Darwin. It was onwards to Kakadu National Park, the largest national park in Australia. Kakadu is waterfalls, crocodiles and Aboriginal cave paintings. To get around, a 4×4 is recommended. Connie was not a 4×4 but we made do. Most of the time she did okay, despite almost overheating on a “2WD accessible road”. We had Kakadu almost entirely to ourselves it seemed. We were driving out of the NT pretty close to wet season which meant the crowds were nothing compared to the dry season highs. It spoiled us.

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After Kakadu it was on to Edith Falls, where small fish nipped at you if you stood still for too long.  It didn’t ruin anything though. Waterholes are what the NT was good for. Finding croc-free swimming was a God send and any break from the heat was appreciated. Leaving Edith Falls would bring us to Katherine. Where we needed to settle any issues, stock up on everything for the journey down the to center of the country. At this point, we didn’t know what Connie had in store for us.

The story deserves it’s own post. But let’s just say; Katherine brought us one hell of a breakdown, a whole day in a Woolworth’s parking lot and a new fuel pump. Because of what happened, we decided Connie couldn’t make it down to the bottom of the NT then back up to Cairns and also down the East coast, like we had planned. So, we cut out Uluru and some other things on our list and headed towards Port Douglas. A beach town just north of Cairns and the top of the East Coast of Australia.

Driving the Outback is barren. We passed absolutely nothing for hundreds of kilometers. When we finally would hit a town, someone would say something along the lines of, “ people actually live here? What do they do…”. Seriously, there’s nothing. We slept in gravel pits and showered out of a bucket. We did make it to Daly Waters, an infamous little pub in the middle of nowhere, with the oldest liquor license in the Territory. It was here I found out what a hangover in the NT sun was like ( not great…) . For the sake of my dignity, I won’t post the details on the internet. Crossing into Queensland passed a stretch of unbelievable bushfires that probably lasted 10 miles. We also saw the largest (we would later find out was a Wedge-tailed) Eagle devouring roadkill and a mutilated cow carcass we still have questions about.

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Then, we made it to Port Douglas for our first East Coast experience. It felt like the real civilization we’d been missing for months. Our days in Port Douglas were filled with the Daintree rainforest, and Cape Tribulation. ( Did you know Australia is the only place in the world with tropical rainforests that doesn’t have monkeys?)

From Port Douglas, we’d head to Cairns, where we booked the rest of trip we had planned. This included; two nights on Magnetic Island, Two nights on a sail boat in the Whitsundays, and three days on Fraser Island. After price haggling with a tour company, we booked almost everything our selves for cheaper.

Magnetic Island brought us koala bears. Wild, koala bears. Which I thought would be too elusive of an animal to see on my Australian adventure. I was wrong. Melissa, Mike and I saw at least 5 koala bears hanging out on Magnetic Island, even a baby one. We also fed rock wallabies from our hands. We rented a bang up, topless, blue 4×4 and smashed through the unpaved roads in Magnetic Island. Mike did donuts in the sand. While staying at Base X hostel, the only hostel on the island, we played bingo and did not win a damn thing. I did however convince the manager to give me cheese after the kitchen had closed. Which felt like a win to me.

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We left our blue little convertible hoopdie to get Connie back and drove to Arlie Beach, the kickoff point for our Whitsunday’s sailing trip. We were to board Condor, a ship that has one every important race in the world- twice. Condor would be the vessel for an incredible group of people over the following two days, and a fucking crazy sailing trip. The weather was what made this trip. It was grey skies and storm clouds almost all the way. Once we got on board we were told to grab the yellow raincoats from down below and hold on. The Captain reminded us, this weather is what this ship was made for. We all thought, “ oh cool sailing!” We did not expect Condor to eventually become vertical with two sails up. The meaning of ‘hold on’ took a whole new meaning. When we reached our destination for the night, we saw a baby dolphin and his mother. We opened up the liquor on board and sat around talking about how crazy the sailing had just been. Later we learned, none of the other sailboats around us braved the storm and put up their sails. At one point, we broke the bow line. Condor was still the fastest boat in the water.

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The weather on the Whitsunday’s would be about the same for the duration of our trip. It didn’t stop us from enjoying the incredible white sand that Whitehaven Beach provided and it certainly didn’t stop us from enjoying the company of the people on board. Condor may have given Mike, Melissa and I a hell of a head cold but it was one of my personal favorite parts of the road trip. I also spotted a shark snorkeling, so all in all, Whitsunday’s was fantastic.

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From Whitsunday’s we headed to Fraser Island. Which can be summed up basically with:  sand roads, wild dingos and SURPRISE- more car trouble. This time it was trouble from our rental 4×4 and not from our baby, Connie. It’s another car trouble story for the history books. Another one that needs it’s own post and still makes me wonder how we even got ourselves out of it. Aside from the car trouble and being surrounded by wild dingo’s, Fraser Island was peaceful and almost untouched. Despite the car trouble, we were happy we chose not to join a tour group, opting to drive our own car. Mike once again enjoyed the off roading aspect of the 4×4 only vehicle island. Melissa and I both even got behind the wheel, once.

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After we’d emotionally recuperated after our Fraser Island experience, we were off to Noosa where we were meeting Melissa Irish-Australian Family. We left our tents in the car and were treated like royalty once we arrived. “ Absolutely lovely” doesn’t exactly cover how great Melissa’s family is but that’s what we’ll go with. Mike and I really weren’t surprised. They even threw me a big Thanksgiving dinner with all the fixings. It made me homesick, but I was happy to spend Thanksgiving with a big family rather than by a camp stove. We were also treated with tickets to the Australia Zoo. Which is the zoo Steve Irwin and his family own. It will probably be the best zoo I ever visit. We pat kangaroos and koalas, got ridiculously close to lemurs, and got to go to the animal hospital to see how they take care of all the animals. It was honestly fantastic and I highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Noosa/ Brisbane Area.

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After four days eating and drinking all we could manage with Mel’s family, we had to sell Connie and we were running out of time. Melissa was scheduled to fly home for Christmas and everyone wanted to be in Melbourne. Our registration had one more week left before it expired. Everyone was strapped for cash at this point. The trouble was that we’d bought Connie in the NT, where everything is more expensive. We thought, incorrectly, that we’d be able to sell her for more than we paid, considering the massive amount of money we’d put into the car. We waited anxiously for someone, anyone to answer our advert and take Connie off our hands before we needed to extend the registration. We weeded out a few scams before someone, in the 9th hour, decided to take Connie off our hands. It was a pitiful price we sold her for but it needed to be done. By the end of November we’d traveled over 7,000 km in Connie and finished our East Coast tour exactly how we had planned it. We mastered eating out of an esky, setting up camp in the dark and living out of a car. The road trip wasn’t always planned but it was always interesting. As I’m sitting in a Melbourne cafe right now, it’s crazy to think of the route we completed to get here. Beep beep !

 

 

Where are you going? Where have you been?

 

At this point I’m about 1/3 of the way through with my working visa. Time flies. I had no real plans after touching down and while I can’t claim things have gone seamlessly with this strategy, I still like to believe everything happens for a reason. I’ve gotten somewhat stuck in Darwin again, this time for work. But after losing my phone and breaking my computer, I really didn’t think the best decision for me was to head into the unknown with very little money and zero technology. So, I hit up a friend I’d made before that failed sailing trip and begged for a job, hopped a plane from the east coast and made it back to Darwin ( Thanks Lee) . I honestly don’t know how well things would have gone if I didn’t also meet someone in Bali willing to let me stay in his apartment for free while he was on holiday ( Thanks Nigel) . And now, I’m situated in a 5 bedroom house, a stones throw away from work and headed off on an epic road trip with two people I’m excited to adventure with.

I guess what I’m getting at is that, Darwin isn’t so bad. I hated it at first, hated waiting around for a sailing trip, hated the fact that I got on board with a narcissist and had to hire a seaplane to take me back to Darwin. I’ve been spending the last four months back and fourth from a place I wasn’t too keen about to begin with. But, as life will have it, I think I found some things I needed along the way. Now I’m actually glad I’ve spent so much time in the Outback. I’ve made great friends and I’ve been to places that a lot of backpackers don’t get to. I’ve met people who were willing to give me a job, use their house rent free, two who want to split a car and road trip the east coast together and, one who wanted to travel to Bali. More than once in these last four months I’ve felt down trodden and over budget. But I’m not done yet. I figure this was a good time to remind myself, and whoever reads this, what I’ve been up to.  Because while I feel like I’ve “just” been back and fourth to Darwin, I’ve still squeezed in some good exploring.

So, the adventure started in June. What I thought would be an easy flight path turned into yelling at LAX employees and a free night in a California airport hotel. When I finally made it to Sydney, I messed up my hostel booking and needed to immediately find a place to stay.  Once I did, I did the whole making hostel friends thing, visited cafes and saw all the classic Sydney landmarks I’d had in mind. While I was in Sydney was also when I got in touch with Peter, the captain of the catamaran I eventually boarded and Kevin, the farmer of the farm I’d eventually make my way to sans cellphone.

After getting in touch with Peter, I found a cheap flight to Darwin and within a few days my Northern Territory adventure had begun. It was probably a little under three weeks I spent in Darwin before getting on the boat. It felt like much longer though. I met Melissa and a few others, we pissed away too much money trying to find things to do. When I finally got the call the boat was back in Darwin. I met Ellie, and we found out that the boat was broken and we would not be sailing immediately but staying anchored, in Darwin for another week while the captain’s daughters were on board. So Ellie and I pissed away too much money in Darwin, trying to find wifi and things to do. At this point I was living on a boat in front of the sailing club that I’m now employed at.

When the girls left and the sail was fixed, we finally set sail to the Kimberley’s. We bought heaps of snacks and supplies, thinking that we would be on the boat for the better part of two months. It was a two day sail to the first river of the Kimberleys, Berkley River. The captain had not grown on me and his girlfriend never wore any clothes. I think it was day 5 I finally said out loud to Ellie that I wished I never got on board. Maybe it was day 6 she mirrored the same thoughts back to me. We hoped it would get better. But Ellie and I would go to our bedroom after dinner every night and whisper and gossip about each days antics. Long story short, we started to plot our escape. When it was all said and done, Peter thought it was his idea and we weren’t going to be trapped on a boat for much longer. We sailed to King George’s River and watched as our rescue seaplane landed next to the boat. That plane ride was probably the best part of the sailing trip… leaving. Oh and, we saw two crocodiles. But back to Darwin it was.

After the five hundred dollar unexpected expense in the seaplane, Ellie and I mutually agreed that we wanted to go somewhere where we could stretch our pennies. So, Bali it was. We caught the first plane out of Darwin to Bali. I’ll skip the story about how we had to pay $160 AUD each to check our baggage, this blog can’t just be about me losing money, after all.

Bali was magic. I almost don’t have the words. It was the first time I actually felt good about the travel decisions I had made. We saw everything we could in the three weeks+ we were there. I spent a week learning to SCUBA dive in the exact area of the volcano that is right now, waiting to erupt. I’m thankful that I’m not there during the crisis, but worried about this place that I’ve fallen in love with. So yeah, I may have rode a motor bike off a ledge, and I may have thought I broke a rib while surfing, I MAY HAVE broke my computer and lost my phone but I would go back and repeat everything in Bali again.  I met incredible people. My eyes were open and my heart was full. I’m praying for the safety of the Balinese people during this time.

If you’ve been reading recent posts..you know about the turmoil I caused myself when I left Bali, but not about the farm.  I landed in Newcastle airport and waited for the CountryLink bus to get there. I was told that I could just ask the bus driver to take me to “Kevin’s Farm” and he would know the way.  To my surprise, that’s exactly what happened. Considering the journey I’d had to get there, I was incredibly relieved when I finally met Kevin, my host, and his son Jo. I was eager to experience life on this 2,000 hectare cattle farm. The first morning I hopped on the back of Kevin’s motor bike and we drove around herding cattle.  I think when I look back I’ll cherish the time I spent on this farm. It takes a little bit of time to get used to the pace of the country but it’s such a different way of life than I’ve ever experienced. Kevin and I got along really well. He was part farmer, part geode collector, expert mechanic, expert carpenter, amateur legal expert and a man who raised three kids on his own. His friends who stopped by were characters, to say the least. On the farm, I learned how to cook steak and how to drive a stick shift (while maneuvering around massive piles of cow dung). On my last day, I had the pleasure of herding a bull all by myself. Kevin let me take home a cow skull, which I carried right onto the plane to took back to (you guessed it) Darwin. Right now, I’m preparing to send that baby home to America. I’m going to have this cow skull for the rest of my life and I’ll always be able to look back at my time on Kevin’s Farm and in Australia. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take the wallaby skull we found. I’d need some fancy permits to ship it to America. Bummer…

That brings me to where I am now. Gainfully employed at the Darwin Sailing Club and saving every penny I make for the road trip I’m starting in about a week. Ellie sent me my iPhone from Malaysia. Finger’s crossed that it passes customs and gets back to me, never to be left behind again.  I’ve been spoiled since I got back to Darwin for the third time. I have a job, spent a month with basically my own apartment and now I’m in a house with amazing people. Occasionally we have parties with strobe lights and saxophones. I’ve had the best spaghetti carbonara of my life and eaten kangaroo. So while, I thought Darwin was exactly what I didn’t want out of my time in Australia, it turns out that I was just what I needed. Go figure. Thanks Darwin. I’m still buzzing to get the hell out of here but it’s been real. It’s off to the East Coast for God only knows what kind of debauchery ahead.

Technically Speaking, A Day from Hell.

I wish I could say I haven’t been keeping up with my blog because I’ve just been too busy, living life, out of wifi connection. In reality, I lost my phone and broke my computer in one day on the journey from Lombok, Indonesia back to Australia. Yes, one day. My most important technologies exterminated. If you don’t want to be incredibly inconvenienced, distraught and, frustrated in a foreign country… my expert suggestion would be to not, do this. So, to my dismay this post is another “I fucked up but I’m learning stuff along the way,” edition to Dana The Explorer.

I woke up early morning the day I was scheduled to leave Lombok. Elli and I were parting ways. She was about to embark on a three day hike up a volcano and I was scheduled to start another workaway on a cattle farm north of Sydney. Before I said goodbye to Elli, I started throwing up. My first experience of “Bali belly” after almost a month in Indonesia, just a few short hours before I was to begin what would be a 36 hour journey back to the Land Down Under.

It was the Bali Belly that would temporarily destroy my connection to the 21st century. I decided to pack my computer away in my backpack. I assumed it would be safe, after all, there’s a computer pocket. WHAT COULD GO WRONG? ( Hold that thought.)

After a cup of tea to sooth my stomach, I laid down on a beanbag in my hostel, half a asleep waiting for my transportation to the ferry. Eventually I heard my name called. At this point, what I think happened was that I put my phone down on a table, strapped on my backpack and took off. Leaving my iPhone and lifeline on the table. Still feeling like complete crap and knowing I had scheduled transportation at every step of the trip from Lombok back to Bali and to the airport, I didn’t even look for my phone.

I didn’t look for it in the shuttle, not in the cafe they dropped us off at to wait before I hopped on the back of the Shuttle Company Owner’s motorbike with my 50L backpack. I was so sick I didn’t care to look for my phone while I was waiting in the office at the port for an hour. I didn’t care to look for it in the hour and a half ferry from Lombok to Bali. I found my airport transfer after looking for a half hour, I finally decided that I should check the time.

After it definitely wasn’t in my purse. I started to panic. Because I’m traveling light, that’s the point. I know I’d never stick my phone in my backpack because I wouldn’t have access to it. Once I confirmed it wasn’t in my purse or backpack I knew it was gone, I literally have no other belongings. I was angry at myself, still felt sick and, even managed to get with the middle seat for the two hour traffic-riddled trip to the airport. I was pissed. The silver lining was that I was just going to be slightly unconvinced, I could get to the airport, log on to my computer and figure everything out. Or so I thought.

I found the airport waiting area before I passed security and pulled out my laptop. The screen was black. Hmm bummer, I thought I’d charged it. I moved my stuff over to a charging station. There was even a converter already in the plug, lucky me, I thought . I plugged in and tried again. Screen still black, except this time I heard the apple start up noise. Why is the screen black? Why is this happening? I was scheduled to arrive on a farm soon, the only information I knew was that after I got to Australia, there was a 6pm bus from somewhere that would lead me to the farm. Now the reality set it in, I was phone less and computer less in an airport in Indonesia, completely alone. Cue the tears.

After several deep breaths and thoughts along the lines of “what the expletive is happening” and “it’s just you here, you need to figure this out” I scoped out a couple that looked like they spoke English and I pulled it together enough to explain that I lost my phone and my computer wasn’t working, could I please use yours to try to figure out my life?

My only objective at this point was to figure out information about the farm I was going to. By some miracle, I remembered my Workaway password and username on the first try. The second miracle was that my host, Kevin, provided me with his phone number in our correspondence . I shot him a message that I’d be calling on random number and wouldn’t be able to be in contact until then.

At this point it wasn’t a priority to check in at home. I didn’t want to spend any extra time on this stranger’s laptop and honestly, I still felt like complete crap. I thanked the couple, who I never got the names of, and set off to find a place in the airport to wait out the time I had until my flight. About 5 hours… I found the most chocolatey looking brownie I could find and sat and waited, trying not to dwell in the shit day I’d been having.

I’ll spare you the incredibly boring details about how I eventually managed to find my way to the farm. It involved a bus to a train, another five hour wait on a park bench and a two hour bus ride. When I made it to the farm, there was a 14 week old puppy and a room just for me.

The moral of the story is, sometimes life sucks and you have to cry to strangers. Other than the last hours I spent in Indonesia, the things I saw and did there will stay with me forever. I’m once again incredibly lucky that nothing was stolen from me, it was my own mistakes I have to live with. I even managed to find my phone, It’s currently in Malaysia with Eli.  I’ve got an amazing support system, a new computer, and a google phone that sort of works. Yesterday I became 1/3 of the proud owner’s of a car and I’ll be one the road again soon. More adventures to come.

The Aussie Chronicles:
Sailing Fails, Sea Planes and Southeast Asia.

I have a feeling I’ll be reminding myself throughout this trip that it’s “all about the journey”. Nothing like a failed, long awaited, sailing trip to remind you of that. We did, eventually, set sail to the Kimberley’s. Before the ranting begins I should mention, I do not regret waiting for this boat trip, I’m just bummed it wasn’t the kind of adventure I was seeking.

I’m sure I’ll never make it back to the Kimberly’s again. It’s beautiful but incredibly remote. I can say I’ve sailed down the west coast of Australia, visited Berkley and King George’s River. We trudged through the Bush, saw not one, but two elusive salties ( that’s salt water crocodiles in Australian), and stumbled upon 20,000+ year old Aboriginal cave paintings. It goes with out saying this was an experience like no other. But what’s an adventure with out some rocky waters?

The unfortunate part was that our captain began a new relationship shortly before we set sail. Eli and I found ourselves on what felt like, some one else’s honeymoon. When there’s 5 people sharing a very small space, you don’t need the boat to be rocking during dinner time (if you catch my drift). Don’t get me wrong, if someone wants to pay me to be a personal chef on their private boat for their honey moon.. sure, kinda weird, but sure. But I was working for free, on what I thought would be a very active journey. There was no escape. Swimming off the boat was entirely impossible due do the aggressive animals lurking in the merky blue waters, and our captain was preoccupied with the new love he’s found. There was one outing a day off the boat. Bushwalking to the top of the waterfalls, where hopefully we could find some croc free fresh water to swim in. Peter & Co would run off. Our fearless leader had no intention of leading or creating any type of group dynamic. It was a bummer. Thankfully, the three people left  on the boat ( Eli, Gonzo and I ) who were not involved in a hot and heavy relationship, got along great. We mutually felt that what was supposed to be a six week adventure was not going to happen. We had to get out of there.

Flash forward to a four seater sea plane picking us up, Uber style in the middle of a gorge. We set the plan to leave in motion, thanks to one Satellite phone, the only possible way you’re getting service in west bumfuck, where we were located. We couldn’t wait to get out of there.  I don’t want to seem ungrateful, because I am not. It was an incredible opportunity, and one that many people will not experience in their lifetime. We were spoiled, having entire gorges and waterfalls to ourselves. The entire time we saw two other boats. This, was the Outback.

Workaway hasn’t been ruined for me. There will be hosts who actually like me, willing to provide positive experiences for a little bit of elbow grease. But this sailing trip challenged parts of me that are hard to suppress. I bit my tongue and kept on with my duties even when I felt I was at my wits end. At the end of the day, I was on a free sailing trip. Some things aren’t worth the battle.

I’m understanding why people love to plan out their holidays. I’ve got so many ideas and you’d think a year would be a sufficient amount of time to complete at least, some of them. I guess, I’m having the best type of problems. I’m wondering what’s ahead as I’m traveling on a Greyhound bus back to…… DARWIN!!

Never thought I’d be excited to head back to this place but it will be the most civilization I’ve seen in a few weeks. The sea plane dropped us off in a poe-dunk town called Kununara. Darwin is a ten hour trip away and the closest city from there. Eli and I have made plans to fly to Bali at the end of the week. We both thought we’d be sailing for another four weeks, without spending money so we thought, why not go somewhere cheaper than Australia? Sigh.. Bali it is.

Stay Tuned.

The Aussie Chronicles: Life in
Darwin Part Deux.

So, a little over three weeks have passed and I’m still *expletive* in Darwin. The only change is that I am finally sleeping on the catamaran at least. The captain’s 3 daughters are on board this week and the plan was to sail around with them first before taking of to The Kimberly. But as per usual, there’s a slight bump in the road. Or more like, a tear in a sail and a broken alternator. So Eli, the other Workaway crew member and I have been cooking and cleaning for our keep while helping out Peter with his daughters. The problem is that, we’re still docked in Darwin so during the day when they’re off doing activities we are stuck back in Darwin. The Land of nothing to do.

The last three weeks haven’t changed too much from my last posting. The bright side is I’ve met friends who’ve made it much better and we all agree, Darwin is not the vision of Australia we’d had in mind. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still loving my travels but as of right now, I think I’m loving the prospect of the adventure ahead. At this point I’m just hoping it actually happens.

It just goes to show you, the people you meet along the way have a huge impact on your trip and it’s important to put yourself out there. It took my awhile to mingle with people at my hostel. It was cliquey and most people were living there long term. Thank god for Melissa and Hettie. Melissa is from Northern Ireland and had been traveling around SouthEast Asia for the past 6 months before arriving in Darwin. Hettie is English and was towards the end of her Working Holiday visa.

We were lucky that Hettie befriended a tour guide from one of the tours she’d been on in her time here.  She woke me up one morning whispering, ” Dana… do you want to come to Litchfield?” Yes, I absolutely did. Litchfield is a national park about an hour and a half drive outside of Darwin. You either need to rent a car or purchase a tour to get there. We were going for free because of Hettie’s connection to and awesome Aussie named Trent who wanted to go for the day. Melissa and I got to come along. It was by far the best day in Darwin. And a better picture of what I hope Australia will be.  There are multiple waterfalls and swimming holes that make up Litchfield. To sum it up quickly, it was magnificent.  It only added to the experience that the man taking us was an experienced tour guide for the area. At one point he stopped along the trail and said, ” do you hear that…? BATS!” Trent proceeded to stare into the trees until he’d spotted huge, bats spreading their even bigger wings. Along with a wild emu we saw on the dirt path we drove back on, it was the most Australian wildlife I’ve seen so far.

 

 

 

As of right now, Eli and I have found ourselves mooching off of the free wifi at the Doubletree while Peter and the girls are experiencing Litchfield for themselves. She is literally and figuratively on the same boat as I am. We need to set sail soon or scrap the whole boat trip idea to find adventure elsewhere. These Explorers have had enough of Darwin. Stay Tuned!

 

The Aussie Chronicles: Life in
Darwin – You Love It Or You Leave It.

I’ve arrived in Darwin to catch the catamaran I’ll be working on. There’s not much going on in this town. Most people are either trying to find regional work to extend their visa or just getting in from Southeast Asia. It funny though because from what I can tell, you either love Darwin and find yourself here for 4 months or you’re trying to get the hell out of here. For me, it’s different because I’m using Darwin as a jumping off point for another adventure. There’s simply just not much to do, and it’s equally as expensive as Sydney. I’m feeling more on the leave it side. But I’ve met some good people.

It’s cool to be in the Outback though. Actually, it’s hot, which has been lovely considering Sydney was cool and cloudy. Darwin is the area you visualize when you think about Australia. It has red rocks, the weather is either a wet or dry season, and everything can kill you. Despite the heat and coastal location, there’s no swimming in the ocean in Darwin. You can thank salt water, predatory, crocodiles for that. Thank god for man made watering holes and lakes. Because, man, it’s warm. I’m loving every second of it. My hostel has an outdoor living space. It’s not the best hostel in the world but it’s nice to have a couch outside and be able to use it all day and night. There’s also and outdoor kitchen, so there’s frequently beer bong.

I have a few more days here but I think I’m just going to end up working on my tan because I’ve pretty much seen it all. I could book a tour to see some more rural places but if this sailing trip is going to be anything like I think it is, I’m sure I’m going to be seeing some incredible untouched parts of Australia. So I’m not sure I want to spend a couple hundred dollars for something I might see again, in the wild, for free. It could be a mistake but I’m happy to work on my tan and save money where I can.

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Darwin does have good sunsets and a cute little night market in it’s corner. I’ve been good about my purchases though. No boomerangs yet. However, I heard somewhere that every good adventure needs a good hat…  I went to the grocery store in an effort to be as frugal as possible and have been cooking the majority of my meals. Saving money where I can so I can spend it on beer, one of the only activities Darwin seems to be good for.

The Aussie Chronicles: Letting
Adventure Into Your Life Part One.

Dana the Explorer has made it to the Land Down Under. Despite some minor bumps in the road I am currently enjoying some free wifi, a ‘long black’ and a toasted cheese sandwich. The journey took longer than expected but it just goes to show you, the best laid plans don’t account for small windows for connecting flights and a completely ill informed airport staff.  But it’s all about the journey anyway, right?

The flight from Boston to LA would be the most painless part of the journey. I watched Hidden Figures and started Big Little Lies. My experience in LAX would not be as easy. After disembarking off my first flight I needed to make a quick transfer to catch my plane to Sydney. Sounds easy enough. I ran to the board to check my gate and get on a shuttle to take me there.  The first shuttle I took was narrowly hit by an airplane wing. The empty bus was with filled the sounds of the driver explaining to another employee how the Air traffic controller was using the wrong signals so she didn’t realize he had wanted her to stop. That was fun. When we finally arrived in the terminal I looked at the board again. My gate had changed, my flight was apparently in the terminal I’d just left. * Insert panic mode* I did not, have time for this. My Dad was concerned I was going to miss my connecting flight.  At this point, I was praying he would be wrong. I ask an attendant and she tells me I need to go to the International Terminal (you’d think that would be perfectly logical) I waited for another shuttle and took this one back to there terminal I just come from.

Repeat the whole, running-around-the-airport-like-a-chicken-with-my-head-cut-off thing only to find out… once again, I was in the wrong terminal. How, I don’t know. I run up to someone in a neon vest and plead for help. At this point, I would not describe myself as composed. And for anyone who knows me well, let’s just say I’m not my best when I’m frustrated. Thankfully at this point the few other travelers in the area were also on my flight to Sydney and were having the same issue. Together now, we hounded the staffers for information and pleaded for assistance. At this point we were missing the flight. At first their suggestion was to run all the way through the terminal we were in, exit , go through security and hope for the best. Or board another damn shuttle and do the same thing. No option seemed like it was going to get me there. Eventually, they told us, “don’t worry, Terminal 2, where you need to be, is closed right now. They’re not going to leave with out you.” We were instructed to wait until they were given the OK and they would take us to terminal 2.

With our worries temporarily (and artificially) pacified, we waited for the shuttle. After finally arriving, we were greeted by completely surprised terminal 2 staff. They had no clue we were coming, the terminal was apparently still closed. Despite their concerns about fines, they let us through. We missed our flight, it left with out us.

By this time, there were five of us in the same boat. We waited for an attendant who would rebook our flights and put us up in a hotel for the night. At least I wasn’t alone in the struggle. Multiple employees from the airport came up to us looking for our story. Not in a “I’ll be assisting you” way but more of a “airport gossip” type way.  They were looking for us to point out who had given us the wrong information. The point was, the five of us had each spoken to several people from the airport before missing our flight and no one had any idea what was going on. The wrong gate was even printed on one of our tickets. Needless to say, it was a mess.

We waited in line at guest services to have our hotel rooms booked. There was George, we would end the experience hugging this George M from Delta. But poor George tired to lecture me about how I had read the ticket wrong. I hadn’t, neither had anyone else. The airport was in the wrong here, and it was the airport who would be paying for our hotels.  I tired to talk upgrade but George wasn’t having it . Eventually, he booked us all on the same flight a day later in an extra leg room seat, a room at the Crown Plaza and three meal vouchers. I’ll take it. My room had a king bed, it wasn’t awful but it wasn’t Australia either.

The bright side of the ultra confusing situation was meeting JuanPaul. An Australian-Argentinan-Eastern European. He’d traveled everywhere expect Africa and Antartica. JP made a great travel companion and gave me some inside scoops about Oz. I wasn’t expecting to have to stay an extra day in LA but at least I wasn’t alone. We finally made it to Australia. It wasn’t until after I’d passed customs that I realized I’d forgotten my power converter for all my chargers. He gave me his, SO THANK YOU JUANPAUL.

Finally, I’d made it to my hostel. When I tried to check in I realized that, I had messed up my reservation because of the plane delay. Basically, Australia is in the future and I hadn’t booked the right days exactly. Of course, they were full for the night. The staffer took pity on me and gave me a key to take a shower, use some wifi and regroup ( thank you Diego). After a very needed shower and change of clothes. I was able to book a new hostel. Also, I had a chance to call my bank who despite the travel notices I’d set, blocked my transactions on my credit cards.

Which brings me back to the café in Sydney where I’m currently sitting, finished with my coffee and toasted cheese sandwich. Despite the bumps in the road, I’m in Sydney, I’m safe, happy and have a place to rest my head tonight. The lesson here is that even though at times I was frustrated with the journey, it could have been a lot worse. After all, I signed up to meet Australians and have an adventure. With out realizing it, I’d started that journey before I even left the States.

Stay Tuned for more tales from Down Undah!